Córdoba Capital

Walking through the streets of Córdoba is like taking a journey in a time machine, being whisked back to the 8th century A.D. and having a front seat view as history’s characters parade, in glorious Technicolour, before your eyes.

The AVE train, punctual to the second, leaves you well placed to easily reach the centre of town. The journey-through-time-show begins almost as soon as you leave the station. Well tended parks and modern buildings providing a glimpse of how, even though in possession of one of the finest collections of archeologically important buildings in Spain, Córdoba faces the future with eyes wide open.

Córdoba’s historic centre is altogether different. The undisputed star of the show is the Mezquita – Cathedral. A fusion of cultural influences, it was begun in 785 under the reign of Abd-al-Rahmán who is attributed with making Al-Andalus (the Arabic territories of the Iberian Peninsula) independent from Damascus – then capital of the Arabic world. The objective of the Mesquita was the construction of a magnificent temple adequate for a kingdom. Córdoba, capital city of this kingdom, had to be suitably adorned in splendour.

Built over the foundations of a Visigothic church that was dedicated to San Vicente, the Mezquita grew in size under several rulers until, with the fall of the last Arabic ruler in the 14th century the emphasis changed from Islam to Christianity. Not without protest from no less august personage as Charles I himself, the interior of the Mezquita was transformed into a Christian shrine by the construction of an imposing alter.

Located next to the Mezqita is the Jewish quarter. Whitewashed houses and narrow streets that in spring are transformed into a riot of colour with flowers dripping effusively from hanging balconies. This area, as its name states, was where the city’s Jewish population lived, in perfect harmony with the Islamic rulers, until the arrival of the Catholic Kings and, in 1492, expulsion and eradication of Judaism from the shores of a Spain gripped in the unforgiving brutality of the Inquisition.

Now, the ghosts of the victims of those dark days are quiet and the streets are at peace. There are countless squares, gaily decorated bars and lots of spaces to rest tired feet.

Córdoba is a city of living history. It is an obligatory visit for the student of culture who wants to flick through the pages of history at first hand. The numerous restaurants and comfortable hotels will assist in making the experience one that will long be remembered.

Food for Thought

The local gastronomy is an evolution of recipes used for time immemorial. Both Jewish and Arabic influences are unmistakable. Specialities include honey roast lamb, salmorejo – a delicious blend of bread, vegetables and garlic served ice cold in summer, ajo blanco – a cold soup made from garlic that retains the taste but avoids the lingering odour, and ‘rabo de toro’, a delicious stew of beef and vegetables prepared using fino, one of the rich fortified wines of Andalusia.

Important Fiestas:

Semana Santa – April. Street processions that are famed for their medieval origins.

Romeria de Santo Domingo – 22nd April. Procession from República Argentina to the Sanctuary in the mountains where partying commences.

Cruces de Mayo – 27th April to 1st May. Flowers, crosses and processions which culminate, at the end of May, with the Cabalagata de la Flores.

Patios, Rejas y Balcones – 2nd and 3rd Sundays of May. Competition of flower displays throughout the city. One of the most colourful events of the year.

Feria de Nuestra Señora de la Salud – end of May. Casetas, traditional dress, dancing, partying until the wee hours and beyond.